Krzysztof Wielicki

A Polish Alpinist with iconic world-class Himalayan climbing experience.

Krzysztof Wielicki is one of the most outstanding Himalayan climbers in the world. Born in Poland in 1950 Wielicki, aged 74 these days, is from the Golden era of Polish Climbing. During the 1980s and 1990s, Polish mountain climbers were among the most successful in the world. They scaled some of the world’s most difficult peaks, sometimes in different seasons and sometimes with increasingly dangerous routes.

Krzysztof Wielicki, the climber, alpinist, mountaineer is only the fifth person in the world who conquered the Crown of the Himalayas – 14 eight-thousand-meter peaks. He is a member of the nearly hundred-year-old The Explorers Club, which awarded him the prestigious Lowell Thomas Award. He is also the co-founder of the Jurassic Mountaineering Club. In October 2018, together with Reinhold Messner, he received a prestigious distinction in the field of sports – the Princess of Asturias Award, popularly known as the Spanish Noble. In 2019, he received the Piolet d’Or (Lifetime Achievement Award). It is considered mountaineering’s highest honor and is referred to as the “Oscars of mountaineering”.

Krzysztof Wielicki was awarded the Commander’s Cross of the Order of Polonia Restituta in 2003, for his outstanding achievements in Alpinism and for popularizing the sport of climbing. In 2015, he was awarded the Wrocław University of Science and Technology Medal for his achievements in Alpinism.

In 2017, the International Astronomical Union approved the name of an asteroid discovered by Vincenzo Silvano Casulli as “173094 Wielicki” in honour of the Polish climber.
On 17 February 1980, as a member of the Polish national expedition led by Andrzej Zawada; Wielicki and Leszek Cichy reached the summit of Everest and, in doing so, they both became the first to climb an eight-thousander in winter.
In 1984, he climbed Broad Peak during a solo expedition and made the first ever ascent of an eight-thousander from a base within 24 hours (16 hours up, 6 hours down).
In 1984 Wielicki climbed Manaslu through a new route on the South-South-East Face.
In 1986, with Jerzy Kukuczka, he made the first winter ascent of Kangchenjunga.
In the same year, 1986, Wielicki climbed Makalu by Alpine style.
In 1988 he made the first solo winter ascent of Lhotse. It is the only solo first winter ascent of an 8000m peak.
In 1990 he climbed Dhaulagiri solo, establishing a new route.
In 1991 he climbed Annapurna through the Bonnigton route.
In 1993 he climbed Cho Oyu through the Polish route.
In the same year 1993, he climbed Shishapangma, a new route on the south face, solo expedition in 24 hours.
In 1995 Gasherbrum II was a solo expedition.
In 1995 Gasherbrum I, he did it in Alpine style.
In 1996 Wielicki climbed K2 through the Japanese route.
In 1996, by climbing Nanga Parbat through the Kinshofer route, solo, he became the 5th person to climb all 14 x 8000m peaks.

In addition to winter and solo ascents, Krzysztof Wielicki has also made many ascents of eight-thousanders in the alpine style – a physically and mentally taxing way of climbing, requiring above all willpower and perseverance, which only the best Himalayan climbers have.

Wielicki repeated Manaslu in 1992 and Gasherbrum II in 2006. He also travelled to climb in the Caucasus Mountains, Hindu Kush and Pamir Mountains. In the previous era, he climbed with Andrzej Zawada, Wanda Rutkiewicz, Jerzy Kukuczka to name a few. Later on, Wielicki organised and led many expeditions.

In January 2022, he released his autobiography entitled “Solo. Moje samotne wspinaczki” (Solo. My Solitary Climbs) which “delves into the climber’s circumstances, emotions and motivations that led him to undertake each of his solitary ascents”.

What made this man climb solo, climb in winter then speed climb?
How was the situation in the 80s and 90s when political and social conditions were different in Poland?
What was his thought process then and how does he reflect on today’s world of mountaineering?

Let’s get to know this legend, Krzysztof Wielicki on 13th and 14th July 2024 at Girimitra sammelan at Maharashtra Seva Sangh, Mulund, Mumbai.